Choose this bundle if you already own a waxing iron and want to prepare your skis for sub-zero training conditions, from melting the wax to the final brushing. It contains solid Original Blue for −1 to −10 °C, two scrapers with different jobs, and horsehair and nylon brushes. The routine suits maintenance waxing on an already prepared base.

An iron, glide-zone cleaner and clean cloth are not included. Use suitable supplies you already own. Preparing a new or freshly ground base from scratch is a separate process; one blue wax does not cover every preparation stage or every snow condition.

Five products, one of each

• 1 × Original Blue solid glide wax — −1 to −10 °C, SKU 423.
• 1 × 3 mm acrylic scraper — removes excess wax from the flat base, SKU 6042.
• 1 × groove scraper — removes wax from the centre channel, SKU 607.
• 1 × horsehair brush — opens the base structure after scraping, SKU 624.
• 1 × semi-hard nylon brush — final finishing, SKU 622.

The Original Blue workflow

1. Clean the glide zones. You need glide cleaner and a clean cloth separately. With SISU Glide Cleaner, shake, apply to the cloth and wipe the base. Allow around 3 minutes to dry, then brush the dry surface with nylon. On classic and skin skis, treat the glide zones only.
2. Melt and spread the wax. Rex’s preparation instructions for SKU 423 specify an iron temperature of 140 °C. Spread the wax evenly over the glide zones.
3. Scrape while semi-warm. Clear the centre channel with the groove scraper and remove excess wax from the flat surface with the acrylic scraper. Keep the working edges clean.
4. Let the base cool before brushing. The 20-minute drying instruction for liquid waxes is not the instruction for this solid wax.
5. Open the structure with horsehair. Brush wax residue out of the base structure. Horsehair performs this removal stage; nylon supplies the finish.
6. Finish with the nylon brush. Brush the glide zones thoroughly. Check that the base structure remains visible instead of being covered by a thick wax coating.

Why two brushes?

The horsehair brush is designed to open the structure after scraping and before nylon brushing. It has a different role from a polishing brush. Nylon provides the final finish. A roto system or separate topcoat is unnecessary for this maintenance routine.

If glide, grip or icing becomes a problem

• The ski feels sticky or the base looks waxy: check scraping and both brushing stages. Adding more wax over a clogged structure is not the next step.
• Conditions fall outside −1 to −10 °C: select a glide wax for the actual temperature and snow. A thicker coating does not extend Blue’s range.
• A classic ski slips on the kick: review the grip wax or check skin condition and ski fit. This bundle treats glide zones and contains neither kick wax nor skin conditioner.
• The kick zone or skin ices up: let the ice melt, then service that area with the method intended for it. Do not put glide wax on the skin or kick-wax zone to fix icing.

Is hot waxing the right routine?

If you prefer to skip melting and scraping, the Easy Glide Without an Iron bundle uses liquid wax. If your scrapers and brushes are already in good condition, buy just the wax you need. The printed design on the acrylic scraper may vary.