Choose Original Blue for a straightforward hot-wax routine in freezing weather. The pack specifies −1 to −10 °C. This fluor-free solid wax is intended for training and regular base maintenance, with an iron, scraper and brushes used to complete the job.

When the solid version makes sense

It is a practical choice if you already have a waxing iron and want to hot-wax your own skis. Rex also uses Blue as the final wax layers in its basic base-preparation routine. Preparing a new or freshly stone-ground ski is a separate process: one layer of Blue does not automatically complete it.

For maintenance without melting or scraping, choose Original liquid glide wax. Blue liquid has a −2 to −15 °C range, so the liquid and solid versions should not be selected as if their temperature markings were identical.

Hot-waxing sequence

1. Clean the glide zones with a glide-zone cleaner and let them dry.
2. Melt and spread the wax using a waxing iron. Rex specifies 140 °C for SKU 423 in its base-preparation instructions.
3. Scrape off excess wax while it is still semi-warm.
4. Let the base cool before brushing.
5. Open the base structure with a metal brush, then finish thoroughly with nylon.

This process requires cooling, not the 20-minute drying step used for liquid waxes.

Tools and a useful finishing check

You need a waxing iron, acrylic scraper, suitable steel or brass brush and nylon brush. A groove scraper helps clear the centre groove. A rotary system and extra topcoat are optional, not requirements for this basic method.

The base structure should remain visible after finishing. If wax still covers it, revisit scraping and brushing before adding more. A thicker coat does not extend the temperature range. On classic and skin skis, treat only the glide zones, keeping wax off the grip zone and skin.